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Big Fun Box
Hi Geoff,
I've been thinking about building a wideband speaker project, and after countless hours of browsing, I stumbled on the TNT BFB project (which was great, because I like TNT and I think DIY/wideband is a cheap way to nice speakers), but -although I'm certainly not a professional-, I think both -excellent- Fostex drivers (FE 204 and FE206) just aren't suitable for Bass-Reflex enclosures. As you noted, the bass response is rolled of around 150Hz, with a little peak around 60Hz. With the help of WinISD I can't find a nice response in a BR. I think it's clear those drivers don't belong in a Bass-Reflex (especially the 206 "FE206E is designed for use in a back loaded horn type enclosure and it is generally unsuitable for bass reflex because of its over damping sound characteristics. However, it is possible to use the FE206E in a BR enclosure as shown).
No matter what Fostex says, it's not really suitable (some people on the single-driver forum will confirm this). Both speakers have a very low "Qts factor" (0.18-0.2), and will work much better in a back-loaded horn. The Fostex FE207E would be a better replacement, it has a Qts=0.26 -still low-, the driver has a much lighter magnet than the FE204/206.
I attached a little WinISD simulation, it's clear why the 207 is the better choice. To put things into context: I'm not saying that those speakers won't sound good (some people (and rooms) may like the rolled-of bass. Perhaps the bass sounds faster, or more detailed, but a little softer, with the FE204/206. But theoretically, the FE207E should sound better in the Big Fun Box.
With kind regards,
Siegfried Trekels - E-mail: siegfried_trekels (at) hotmail.com

GH
Hi Siegfried,
Thanks for the mail - and nice that you've done so much work. Mind you at least one manufacturer puts a Fostex 206 in a box and claims it sounds wonderful see http://www.oldhifi.com/fostex.html. The idea was to provide the easiest possible build for those who need high efficiency and low cost and to provide an alternative to the normal (equally compromised) two-way.
I'm well aware that ideally a horn should be used but as you'll appreciate that hardly fits the "simple to build" criteria.
To quote the above website: "Fostex makes eight different 8 inch full-range drivers. We have evaluated all of them over a period of many months. One driver is absolutely head and shoulders above all the rest in sound quality. That driver is the FE206E. It's not the most expensive Fostex driver, but it unquestionably has the best sound. It also works the best in both bass reflex and bass horn enclosures." They also dislike the 207... "Unfortunately, it is significantly rolled off in the high frequencies and we cannot recommend it. "
>With the help of WinISD I can't find > a nice response in a BR.

Absolutely. Now measure any speaker in room and see the wild (often +/- 12 dbl) swings a 'flat' speaker suffers from. The BFB gentle and even rolled off bass in room seems to be helped rather than hindered by room effects - I know, I know - what room...? As for "soft bass" - absolutely NOT!

The point is I've built the BFB (with 204's). It's uneven, bass light (but punchy) and forward. But it also offers punch, dynamics, efficiency and excitement unobtainable by any other design I've seen at remotely that cost or that simplicity, I'll be pleased to be shown an alternative. It's also incredibly tweekable.

No speaker is all things to all people, the BFB is certainly not an allrounder, but then I never claimed it was :-)
Cheers
Geoff Husband

Nelson audio Image 66i and Jolida 302B
Dear Nels,
Read with interest your review on Image 66i integrated tube amplifier. I'm contemplating buying the Jolida 302B as it has more power. My bookshelf speaker (Quad 10L) is only 84db sensitivity. My music is in the jazz, some pop music and 'vocal region' type of songs. I like my music warm and luscious. How does the Jolida 302B compare with the Image 66i in terms of midrange and high frequency presentation. And in terms of construction.
Looking forward to your comments. Thanks very much.
Regards,
PS. I look forward to more of your "affordable" high-end tube gear reviews. Kah - E-mail: K.Y.Ho (at) apronet.com.hk

NF
Hi Kah,
Thanks for your letter.
Let's start with the easy part, quality of construction. It is my opinion that the Nelson Audio Image 66i has a far better quality of construction than the JoLida JD-302B. Fit and finish is perfect, as far as I could tell, and the Image 66i uses a higher quality volume pot and input selector. Tube sockets are better on the Image 66i as well. Speaker binding posts, although different on the two amps, seem to be of equal quality.

The JoLida is the warmer of the two amps, with the classic "tube warmth", but this comes at the expense of detail; the Image 66i is much more neutral and transparent. The Image 66i is far more detailed than the JoLida, while the JoLida is far more laid back. Additionally, the Image is more dynamic. Both amps are good, it really comes down to personal preferences. Whatever you buy, no matter the brand, make sure you can arrange a home audition, so that you can return it for exchange or preferably, a refund, if you aren't completely satisfied.

Your speaker's sensitivity is a bit of a concern; 84dB is on the low side. Whether either amp will have enough power for you depends on the size of your listening room, as well as your listening habits.

As far as "affordable" end gear, I currently have a hand crafted, point to point wired tube line stage and a matching tube phono stage in my system. The price, I think will interest many, $400 for the line stage, $450 for the phono stage, including air freight worldwide. I'm at least a month away from being finished.
I hope I have been of assistance.
Nels Ferré

C37 stuff
Hi Lucio,
I e-mailed you last month about c37 and since then i have purchased 3 bottles, Dieter has been helping me with it. I messed up one lowther driver out of 4 i think i pulled the whizzer cone too far (i'm a little clutzy) i felt it sticking, if i wouldv'e left it, it probably would've been fine. I'm very happy with c37 what it has done to the window, i haven't had a problem with mudiness Dieter said that he has improved the formular.
My question to you is have you ever tried interconnects or speaker wire?
I also did the platter of my tnt and hated the way it sounded, 2 weeks later great!
I'm going to purchase some more bottles to do the cabinets of my Mauhorn's
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Lou - E-mail: tsr (at) cyburban.com

LC
Dear Lou,
as far as I can remember :-) I hadn't tested the C37 lacquer on speaker cables. I'm pretty sure its positive effects will be more audible on drivers membranes, TT platters and mainboards. Try the mainboard-version of the C37 lacquer on a cheap CD player. If you like what you hear (and you'll like it :-)) chances are you'll be putting the stuff on more expensive gear as well.
Keep me updated!
Lucio Cadeddu

TNT StoneBlocks
Hi, I'm reading the page about the TNT Stoneblocks, and I'm wondering about the material in the footblocks, is it really a plastic compound?
I'm from Sweden and my first thought of what kind of material it is based upon what is sold for the "foot-purpose" here in this country. And that is a kind of vulcanic rock? Could this be the same? I'm very interested in trying out the Stoneblock but if it's not the right material then it probably won't do the trick in the same way.
Thanks alot for one of the abolute best sites on the internet!
Best regards
Niklas Svensson - E-mail: niklas.svensson (at) kalmar.se

LC
Dear Niklas,
foot care "stones" come in different flavours :-) There are those derived from a plastic foam and those which are - more or less - pieces of light stones. It doesn't really matter, as long as the stuff is STIFF and light. Try those and let me know,
Lucio Cadeddu

Good stuff
You may be interested in three cd's that I have found very useful in testing system capabilities.

1. Hildegard Von Bingen, Canticles of Ecstasy Sequentia track 5 for power in the higher ranges all tracks for imaging and space
2. Aphex Twin, Drukqs 1 tracks 1 + 2 for support of totally manufactured sound
3. Juno Reactor, Bible of Dreams same as chemical brothers and such but much more powerful and quick in the bass area, its also really fun to listen to.

LC
Dear Milo,
thanks for the precious suggestions. We all need good food for our hungry HiFi systems. If I may suggest something in return, throw a ear at Emma Shapplin's "Carmine Meo" for bass extension and quasi-soprano vocals. IMHO, a very nice album, as well.
Lucio Cadeddu

Shanling Tube CD Player
Mr. Ferré,
I read you review of the Jolida 100A Tube CD Player, very nice. Do you plan to review the Shanling Tube CD Player any time soon?
Thank you,
Ron Miller - E-mail: millerr (at) nsc.org

NF
Hi Ron,
Thanks for your note. Although I have no plans to review either Shanling CD or SACD player, I would welcome the opportunity. All that needs to happen is for Roy Hall, the US importer to contact me.
Regards,
Nels Ferré

Infinity Kappa 8.1
Dear Mr. Ferré
I enjoy reading your articles and reviews immensely. I have lately replaced all my older midfi grade equipment with newer high-end components and was thinking of replacing the Kappas as well. But in auditioning new speakers in the price range of what the kappas cost me ten years ago, I cannot find any that better the sound of the Infinity's. I was wondering what you would recommend auditioning as you are aware of the kappa sound and if the change would be worth it. This is not to say that I am displeased with the kappas I have but as always the itch still remains.....Thank-you very much.
Mack Khan - E-mail: makhan (at) dhr.state.ga.us

LC
Hi Mack,
Thanks for your letter, especially your words of appreciation. That means a lot to someone who writes for free. I understand your affection for your Kappa 8.1s. I feel the same towards my 6.1s, and still feel that they were a wise purchase. While I have heard speakers that I like better than the 6.1's they all seem to be priced at $2500 or above. In 1993 the Kappa 6.1 had a suggested retail of $1250 per pair. I've heard most of their new line and am less than impressed.
Your speakers, if I remember correctly, were approximately $1600 in 1993. In my opinion, it's going to be difficult to find some thing appreciably better in today's market for the same money.
I have decided, however that my Kappas may be able to be improved upon by the utilization of higher quality resistors, capacitors, and inductors in place of the factory parts. I'm still doing the research on this, but plan on having the mods done and a review posted sometime this summer.
Here is a link to an excellent resource for Infinity speakers:
Infinity Classics
I hope this is helpful.
Nels Ferré

Tannoy, you've got to be kidding
Hi, I don't know whay planet your on, I purchased a pair of Mercury 2.5 speaker last march, I play cd, dvd, vinyl and I have never been so disappointed with these speakers, my amp is a denon pma 250 mk3, it is nearly a full year, the sound quality was poor when i first got them, I hoped it would improve with time, with the covers off, in two corners of my room, i thought i give it some time, for a while i thought they had improved, but no the sound quality has not, too such an extent my vinyl sounds shit, just cant play any now, cant play any disco because of the bass, they just can't take it, whether cd or vinyl the sound quality is crap, i have to put low volume and have to turn down the bass to nothing, in fact i am sending a fax to tannoy to ask for money back never will i buy so shit again,
Mark Seviour - E-mail: seviourp (at) aol.com

LC
Dear Mark,
I reviewed the Tannoy M2's, no idea how the 2.5 compare with those. Anyway, considering Tannoy makes pretty good sounding speakers for the price, I find your comments a bit over the top.
First of all, because you should have LISTENED to them before buying. Secondly, perhaps you're expecting too much performance from a so low priced package. Quality come at a price, when you start saving...you have to accept compromises and shortcomings. Thirdly, perhaps your amp isn't up to the task or simply isn't a good match with the Tannoy's. Finally, there are sooo many variables that influence the final performance of a pair of speakers (room and placement being of paramount importance) that I'd avoid saying the Tannoy's are "c#ap" so easily. Perhaps you won't have your money back but for sure you'll be able to sell them at a reasonable price. Next time, try a careful and personal audition before buying.
And just a final advice: when you write a letter to a public magazine, check spelling and grammar. I've tried to fix your mistakes then I gave up because they were way too many ;-)
Lucio Cadeddu

Mains safety
Hi Lucio
I really enjoy your site and particularly the DIY sections - I am part way through building some kit IPL speakers.
I do not want to be a kill-joy but in my working life I have designed many electrical connectors and safety must be the first consideration with mains power. A recent suggestion in your letters page about possibly using a junction box for connecting Hi Fi equipment could too easily be implemented in ways that are dangerous.
Junction boxes are intended for use in the house wiring on the mains side of any socket outlets. For example they do not have any "strain relief" which could result in the live cable being accidentally pulled out.
I would not want to stop anyone experimenting with HiFi but the safety aspects of mains supply are not always obvious to enthusiasts.
Best regards,
Mark Bagnall - E-mail: mbagnall (at) btinternet.com

LC
Dear Mark,
thanks for pointing this out. Actually dealing with mains is always dangerous, and we've always warned readers about the risks of building our own DIY mains cables and filters. Electricity KILLS, so safety must be a parameter that should be taken into serious account, especially by non-skilled DIYers.
Thanks again,
Lucio Cadeddu

Audiomeca questions
Dear Geoff,
I hope you don't mind me writing but I have read your reviews for some time and have been very impressed with your knowledge, writing style and thoughts. I find it interesting that you too have been impressed with audiomeca. I hope you don't mind me asking you a few questions, if so just ignore them.

I have had the romance table/arm and a ruby 2 cartridge for the past two years as my reintroduction to vinyl and have been delighted with the combination. Interestingly I have a friend with a verdier plantine whoalso finds it extremely close to this state of the art rig. It is completely non tweeky, which is a good thing.
I did use his fancy strobe the other day (always a bad thing to play around with other peoples stuff) and it is quite close to being dead on, perhaps a very tiny bit fast but really subtle. Given that I have never done any sort of maintenance I am impressed. I did have one question for you which is would it make any sense to put on some sort of speed controller on it so that I could set the speed even more accurately (something like the vpi sds if you are familiar with it)? This may be overkill and I should probably just leave well enough alone but your thoughts would be appreciated.

The second question is more significant to me. I have had the audiomeca mephisto II and ekianthus (but not the X) and have been pleased but in its stock version it was not on par with the vinyl. By that I mean that when compared the two the vinyl had that extra presence which really made you feel like you were there. I have tweaked it a fair amout (placed the transport on better isolation), bought an improved power connector for the mephisto from m. lurne (custom made) and used walker vivid and an audio deske cd lathe on my discs. I also changed the digital cable from an ensemble gigaflux to the hms il primo which really brought about a great improvemnt. This has made the cd sound much better, less harsh, more open and natural, though still not on par with the vinyl but close.
I cannot upgrade the transport (the new one is too different) but the dac is quite upgradable. From you review you clearly thought this was a major improvement and likely to address some of the things I have noticed. My question is how difficult was it for you to install the new chip? I live in calgary alberta canada and it is a long way from anyplace so if m. lurne is willing I would like to install the thing myself. I am not an electrician but do have friends with a fair amount of ablility. I have fairly steady hands (or so I think), I am a thoracic surgeon.

In closing thanks again for the great writing. Keep it up. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely yours,
Gary Gelfand - E-mail: gelfand (at) acs.ucalgary.ca

GH
Hi Gary,
Thanks for the mail - let's see what I can do.
First speed stability. Any turntable that runs off AC mains will be subject to AC variations from the stated 50 or 60 hz. BlueNote who make such turntables put it as a 3% variation which is surprising, but as it is not in their interest to inflate such a figure (quite the opposite) I tend to take their (and others) word for it.
So your tt which runs slightly fast today might be slightly slow tomorrow. Turntables running quartz locked supplies don't have this problem, but machining variations in pullies and belts will mean that there will be sample variations - Roksan owned up to as much as 1%.
This will also apply to CD decks, but as their speed is governed by voltage not held by frequency of supply, the variations caused by wear, room temperature, time a tt has been running etc may also be quite large. The Orbe has a feedback drive to its motor which should keep it steady, but then we're back to manufacturing tolerences again :-)
In fact the only sure way of getting exactly 33 1/3 is to buy a deck with a variable speed and check it with a strobe before each play - which is a faff at best. And of course all those problems apply equally to the original tape machines and cutting lathes, not to mention deliberate 'varispeeding'. So don't get too hung up on long term speed variations, if you want perfection buy a CD player :-)

Re the upgrade of converter for the Audiomeca (it's much more than a chip) it only involves undoing a few allen bolts and screws then unplugging and plugging in the modules. If I can do it anyone can. The upgrade is significant but only you can say whether it's worth the money.
As always let me know how you get on.
Cheers
Geoff Husband

SOS in a bottle
I email you from London. I have a Sugden A21 amplifier and a cd21 cdplayer.
I want to buy some soudspeakers to match my electronics, but i am starting to loose faith after listening to so many speakers i didn't like...
My listening room is an average sized living room, with wooden floors and a height ceiling of aprox. 2.8-3.0 mts. I mainly listen to high tech jazz (electro jazz, nu jazz.... call it as you wish), electronic music (peace orchestra and the likes...) and sporadically to some acoustic jazz too.
I am looking for a very musical loudspeaker, with a reasonable LF response, good dynamics and timing, and an incredibly wide soundstage with reasonable depth.
I hope you can give a hand, because, as I said before, I am starting to loose faith...
Thanks in advance for the help,
Regards,
B. Lopez - E-mail: borja (at) nildram.co.uk

LC
Dear B. Lopez,
without an idea of your budget I can't be helpful. Anyway, let me try. I suggest you to audition ProAC Studio 125, Tannoy Eyris 2, Thiel CS .5, Triangle Celius 202. These speakers are around 2,000 Euro/pair (1,200-1,300 UKP) and should offer "reasonable" performance with respect to the parameters you've mentioned. If this is too much money for you, try searching for these on the second-hand market.
Hope this helped,
Lucio Cadeddu

CD player advice
Hi, I'm looking for a good cd player that doesn't cost more than $1000.00
Do you have a suggestion for me? I've looked at the Cambridge Audio 500SE and wasn't that impressed. Listened to the Music Hall CD-25 MMF and liked it a lot. Listened to the Nad 541i and it was above average. I'm looking for one that will really do vocals justice. Most of what I listen to are vocals.
Such as Linda Ronstadt/wNelson Riddle Orchestra, Celene Dion, Dixie Chicks, No Doubt, Alison Krauss, Norah Jones etc. I have an onkyo integra int amp which is about nine years old and will probably keep it for awhile. I also own an older pair of Infinity Kappa bookshelf speakers.
But, I'm also looking for new speakers. The ones I've looked at within my price range are the following: Von Schweikert VRl, Meadowlark, Totem Model l, Kirksaeter Silverton 60, Dynaudio Audience 52. If you have any recommendations for me I would truly appreciate the help.
Thanks,
Lori - E-mail: Frislie22 (at) msn.com

LC
Dear Lori,
I do not know the Music Hall player so I can't really comment. The NAD C541 is a very good CD player but I'd suggest you to test listen a Rega Planet. Perhaps its "kind" approach to Music will satisfy your needs. Also, try the Jolida JD 100.
For speakers, take the Von Schweikert's and the Dynaudio's into serious consideration.
Hope this helped a bit,
Lucio Cadeddu

Oldies but goldies???
Hello,
at first would like to say the TNT-Audio site is amazingly profesional!! I like it very much!
Have one question (just read about the philips cd 723 test :-))
I have a Philips cd 880/00R from 1989y looks like performance cd 960, Marantz cd 85 (modificated opams to opa 2604 burrbrown, XO by euroquartz. Also it has the famous tda 1541A S1 and cdm 1 mkI
I like it: smooth sound, speedy and punchy bass, warm, ESPECIALLY MICRODYNAMICS- EXCELLENT!!
BUT I HAVE NEVER HEARD CD PLAYERS AT RANGE 1500-3000$(NEW). Is there a big difference between my oldie and these new cd's?
My system (never will change amp and especialy speakers!!) :

• Quad 303(1979y) quad 33,34
• Quad esl 57 (fully refurbished from 1972-75Y)
• Isoda, Van den hul "the first"
• Speakers cable unknown :)

LC
Dear Rolandas,
the Philips CD 880 is/was a very nice digital machine, as were the 960, the 94 and the Revox B226 (all similar).
Considering you have modded it a bit with new opamps I'm pretty sure it can play very good even by today's standards. Keep it, cherish it and take care of it. If you really want to upgrade, consider buying a Quad 405.2 in lieu of the trusty 303. And make some decent DIY speakers cables :-)
Lucio Cadeddu

NAD PP1 tweaks
Hi Lucio,
This one is for the reader's corner.
My brother had a Nad PP1 phono pre-amp, and he doesn't need it anymore, so he gave it to me. Nothing special, really.
This tweaking bug I have doesn't let me hear my precious vinyl through a cheap and nasty version of the NE5532 op-amp (well... even if it was gold plated it was no good).
First thing, that PSU is no good, it has low voltage (15v), and inside the PP1 it's stabilized with an LM317 and divided into + and - with two resistors.
I did a small PSU with a very little 24 volts transformer, and now I have almost +/-18 volts at the op-amp pins. That sounds much better to me.
First I changed the op-amp with a Burr-Brown OPA2228, on a machined socket. Muuuuuch better. But then, I did a small adapter so that I can use two single op-amps. Nothing less than the best of the best: Burr-Brown OPA637. Now that's high-end!
My Rega Elys plays as never before. Very cheap mods, very cheap phono pre-amp, very good sound. And no, I don't believe in most of the high-end (those prices...) that manufacturers sell these days.
Can you tell me what phono pre-amp (or line pre-amp, or cd-player, you name it) has these, or OPA627 op-amps inside? At what price???
I had to share this with you all at TNT-Audio (and the readers), because you make the best reviews in the world.
Keep the good and serious work.
Carlos Machado, a Portuguese reader :o).
Carlos Filipe Machado - E-mail: carlosfm (at) meta4.com

LC
Dear Carlos,
incidentally, I'm working on a comparison test between the NAD PP-1 (already reviewed by me here at TNT-Audio) and the similarly priced/shaped/hyped Pro-Ject PhonoBox. I will mention your tweaking session in that upcoming article.
Thanks for the excellent feedback!
Lucio Cadeddu

Three tweaks
Dear TNT,
Three things.

First, I recently contacted Maplin in the UK to buy the parts for Thorsten's mains conditioner. Several of the parts have been discontinued but Maplin gave me the references for their replacements. I thought this would be useful to other DIYers so here is the new complete list (note I haven't yet made one so can't say 100% that these are the correct parts, but they seem to be from looking at their descriptions):
YU31J - RG23A (x2) - RG64 - V1M (x4) - CP76H
Some of these parts are now cheaper than when Thorsten wrote the article!

Second, as a cheaper and easier to wire-up alternative to the Hydra, what do you think about using a heavy duty junction box. Maplin do a 30amp rated one with chunky terminals which will easily accept 3 power leads from your hi fi and one out lead to a single quality plug.

Third and last, have you seen the more sophisticated diy mains conditioner featured on the Decibel Dungeon website www.decdun.fsnet.co.uk. For those of us who can wield a soldering iron but who are somewhat challenged when it comes to interpreting a circuit diagram, how about giving us an idiots guide to building this conditioner (minus the unnecessary LEDs) or something similar. This would also be extremely educational!
Ian Reid - E-mail: iansr (at) hotmail.com

LC
Dear Ian,
thanks for the feedback. Yes, I think a good junction box is an alternative, the Hydra is somehow just more user-friendly when dealing with many cables of different lenghts, for example.
Finally, no, I wasn't aware of that DIY mains conditioner. Unfortunately we don't seem to have the time to give support to DIY projects published on other sites, as we're already struggling to give decent support for ours :-)
Lucio Cadeddu

Great Review on Dynaudio Audience 42 Bookshelf Speakers
Hey Scott,
A great review you have in TNT USA. Now I can't wait to get my hands on the Audience 42. I have a question though, what amplifier should I pair with this lovely Dynaudio? Right now i have a Rega P3 turntable, and need a amplifier to bring out the best of the speakers. I have my mind on a Rega Brio but is it a safe bet?
Thanks.
Chung - E-mail: cp_leong (at) hotmail.com

SF
Hi Chung,
Rega makes some fine sounding amps. Tell you what though, the Brio is only a 35 watt amp. Since the Dyns tend to be power pigs, I'd look at the Mira. This gives you 60 watts per channel. The Dyns would definitely be happier with more wattage.
If the Mira isn't quite what you are looking for, take a look at the Arcam A85 (it has a phono pre) or the Roksan Kandy-1 (it has a phono pre too).
These are all in the same relative price range as the Rega Mira and are both fine sounding amps too.
Best Regards,
Scott Faller

Jolida JD-100 glitch
Hi Nels,
I recently bought a JD-100 after first having been bowled over while visiting a store and then having my impression reinforced by your online review. So I bought it and I like it a lot.

But I ran into a glitch which I notice you didn't mention; my dealer describes it as 'normal,' the guy I talked to who answered the phone at JoLida was surprised but confirmed that he duplicated the effect on a player he had on hand. Mike Allen at JoLida didn't return emails or phone calls.
Here's the problem... The Backward Skip button, both on the front panel of the unit and on the remote control, functions strangely. If I am playing the 2nd, 3rd, 4th track, etc, pressing this button returns to the beginning of the current track. However, if I am playing the first track of a CD, or if I am paused during track 1, pressing the Backward Skip button on either the remote control or the front panel returns to the beginning of the LAST track of the CD; for example, pressing Backward Skip in the middle of track 1 of a 12-track CD returns to the beginning of track 12. This problem exists on every CD I've tried.
In contrast, pressing Forward Skip while playing the last track, e.g., track 12, simply moves to the beginning of track 1 as I would expect.
Interestingly, this problem does not appear when I am in Stop mode; in this case, moving from the beginning of track 1 to 2 and from 2 to 1 work precisely as expected.
Does your unit do the same thing?
Thanks,

PS - when not using it, do you leave your unit 'parked' in standby (the state you get if you turn it off from the remote control) or in off (what you get from the front panel). Dealer and guy answering the phone at JoLida have different opinions.
John McVicker - E-mail: mcvicker (at) ohiou.edu

NF
Hi John,
Thanks for your letter. I'm glad you are enjoying your JD-100A.
I did not about the "glitch" because I never noticed it before. Mine works exactly as yours does. To verify that it is an operational abnormality, I tried the backwards skip button on the player in my car, and it works as expected. While it does seem to be an abnormality of the machine, I'm not going to worry about it. You can always back up to the last track of the CD, then advance one track to the beginning of the disc.
When not using the player, I totally turn it off via the front panel.
I hope I have been of assistance.
Nels Ferré

Jolida JD100 Review
Hello Nels,
I have read your review of the Jolida a few times and am thinking of purchasing one for myself. I just sold my original Rega Planet and currently have all Celeste gear (solid state) and Totem speakers with all cabling by XLO.

I listen to mainly pop and Rock & Roll music at moderate levels. If you have the time, could you please answer the questions below.
Would you consider the Jolida a major upgrade over the Planet?
How was the detail on the Jolida?
How was the imaging & sound staging on the Jolida?
Thanks for your time & I look forward to your response.
Dave Srebotnjak - E-mail: David.Srebotnjak (at) microwarehouse.ca

NF
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your letter.
I do believe the JoLida to be a major upgrade to the original Rega Planet. Additionally, because it is a front loader, there's no need to make room on a top shelf as it is with the Rega. Only a home audition will determine whether you think it is a major upgrade.

As far as imaging and soundstaging, the JoLida does very well there, but that's really going to depend on the tubes used. The JoLida has a very neutral output circuit; the tubes will be the determining factor as to the player's performance level.
I hope I have been of assistance.
Nels Ferré

TNT Triple T cable
Hello,
Firstly, I would like to say how appreciative I am for the staff at TNT for having such a helpful and informative website. I just found out about it a few days ago and I have been thinking about making some of the DIY projects.
I would like to find out if the TNT Triple T speaker cable would be appropriate for me. Truthfully, I have already purchased the wire, terminations, and the heat shrink. I will list my audio equipment for you:

• Sony DB940 high current amp 100W x 5
• JVC entry level DVD player (also used as a CD player)
• B & W DM 602 S2 as my main speakers
• Infinity centre channel
• Sony rear surrounds (This is all I can afford at the moment)

LC
Dear Manj,
very few amplifiers do not like the capacitive load offered by our cat-5 based cables such as the Triple T and the FFRC. Technically, all those amps which do not include a Zobel network in the output stages (Naim, for example).
Standard commercial amplifiers should have no troubles with our cables, considering their output stages are over-protected against everything, even against you mother-in-law trying to set your HiFi on fire ;-)
So, don't worry, everything should be OK with your 5 channel Sony.
Thanks for your kind words,
Lucio Cadeddu

Help with a Quad 303 fault?
Hi, found your site whilst trying to get some technical help with my amp I know you are primarily a review site but pehaps you could point me in the right direction, I can't find any assistance!
On switch-on there is a terrific thump in my KEF speakers so loud I'm afraid that the cones are going to leave their frames, I did read your comments in Readers' Corner but this is no longer a gentile thump but a huge bang.
I have checked the power supply voltages at 67v & 33.5 and the output and smoothing capacitors seem to charge and discharge using an Avo model 8. Apart from switch-on the system is superb. I know it's old and at some stage I would like to upgrade to a Quad 405, have you reviewed this?
Hope your not too mad at me for asking a technical question. Love the site and have signed up.
Many thanks in advance
David Aird - E-mail: Airdo2 (at) aol.com

LC
Dear David,
such a strong bump isn't normal. I've used a 303 for some time and had no troubles of this kind. First the obvious: I assume you are following the correct power on-power off procedure, to be applied with ANY preamp-power amp combo. When powering the system on, switch on the preamp FIRST, then the power amp. On power-off, switch off the power amp FIRST, then the preamp.
Secondly, I'd check the power on switch, perhaps it is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Thirdly, I'd ask the Quad customer care, I know they are helpful and friendly, even with vintage stuff owners :-)
Finally, upgrade to a 405.2 as soon as possible, this would be a significative upgrade over your trusty 303 (405.2 NOT 405!). And no, we haven't reviewed the 405.
Keep me updated,
Lucio Cadeddu

JoLida JD-502B
Dear Nels,
I read with interest your reviews of the 302B and 502B at TNT-Audio. Had you done any tweaking to either amp to enhance the soundstage or clarity of the amplifier? I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on the results.

I am considering the 302B, the 502B, the Edison 60 kit or one of the Antique Sound Lab offerings. Have you had the opportunity to use / test any of these units and make any comparison between them? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks for the time,
Hank - E-mail: PacochaH (at) hearthnhome.com

NF
Hi Hank,
Thanks for your email.
  I've not modified my JD-502B for one simple reason.  In reviewing components, I would like to use components that are in stock form, so that readers may have a reference that is readily available.  If I tweak the amp, then there is no true basis of comparison for a reader to draw his or her own conclusion.

I've not had an opportunity to spend any time with either the ASL or Edison amps, but am currently writing a review on a new amp to the US, Nelson Audio.  I'm quite impressed.
I should have it posted in the next 2-3 weeks.
Nels Ferré

Pioneer PD-S 707 - listening test
Dear TNT-Audio,
I've bought a few months ago a Pioneer cd player (PD-S 707), which I think the currently available top model from Pioneer. I would be glad and think it would be useful, if the TNT-Audio test this cd player in the (near) future. I read the test of PD-S 507 and I'm curious whether the PD-S 707 has the sam character or a totally different one?
Anyway, I use a 607R amplifier (also from Pioneer) and a Sherwood turntable (PM-9800) with Ortofon MM pick-up.
Thanks and I'm looking for your answer...
Best regards,
Robert Varadi - E-mail: VaradiR (at) vivendi.hu

LC
Dear Robert,
a listening test for your CD player has not been scheduled here at TNT-Audio. It may happen that we will come across of a sample in the near future but it is hard to predict.
I'm pretty sure it is the best component in your HiFi system though (speakers aside, that you don't mention). hence, whenever possible, upgrade your turntable (with a Project Debut II, for example) and amplifier (with second-hand NAD or Rotel amps).
Lucio Cadeddu

Quadophiles
Hi Lucio,
I am sending this directly to you as I can't find a mailto link for Reader's Corner. I just wondered whether TNT had any plans to review Quad kit? Obviously you're all familiar with the ESL's, but what about those durable, available and more importantly tweakable and cheap amps ? I now there is a big community out there who still swear by the old Quad stuff. The Quad II's are everywhere, but what about the 303's, 405's and 606's?
It would be great to see some stuff from TNT on these.
Many thanks and keep up the great work on your great site!
Julian Smith - E-mail: julian (at) profero.com

LC
Dear Julian,
by now I'm concentrating on vintage Naim stuff :-) No room left for Quads. Anyway, the 33-303 combo is a nice duo, with the amp being a better value than the preamp. Without tweakings (there few of these on the Web) such a pair destroys modern integrated amps as the Cambridge A 500RC, for example. Good timing, powerful bass and drive are their most outstanding qualities.
The 33 has been bettered by the subsequent 34 while the 306 is considered one of the best sounding Quad power amps ever made (of the solid state kind, of course). The 405 isn't really interesting, as it had some electrical problem, solved with the subsequent 405.2. The 606 is a great power amp, powerful, solid and good sounding. The new series (66, 77, 99) are interesting components, very well made and reasonably priced.
Our resident Quad guru is Werner Ogiers (werner (at) tnt-audio.com) so perhaps he can add something more to these very brief comments (he owns various Quad components, including ESL's).
Lucio Cadeddu

BV Audio amp
The BV P300A amplifier arrived about an hour and a half ago. Right out of the box my thoughts were-"Oh, my!" Then it went a little skitzo, mostly thin sounding, no fuzz on the peach. I bumped the volume a ouch, then, as though someone turned on a switch, it really began to come to life- this on red book CD-Paul Simon "One trick Pony". It's filling in beautifully now , powerful, fast as hell, great textures, providing a very intimate perspective on each performance. I expect it will only get better by tonite, tomorrow...

It is an ideal match for its own P1 preamp. Some of you may have received my glowing comments about that jewel. This combination is the very best I have experienced in my room, and it retails for under $4 Grand! Anyone giving this combo a bad wrap either has a hidden agenda, or problems elsewhere that this combo exposes, but they refuse to address.
Robert Hart - E-mail: rrhart (at) bellsouth.net

RG
Mr. Hart,
This was my impression of the PA300 as well - that it was very revealing, an excellent performer, and a great value. What is interesting is that I also noted in my review that very low volume sound quality wasn't great, but just a little increase in volume fixed the problem. I'm sure Ivo is very happy to receive your comments.
Regards,
Richard George

Audio Research and Mc Intosh
Dear Mr. Ferré,
I just read your review of the Jolida CD player and noted that you use an Audio Research preamp and a McIntosh power amp. I have been thinking of doing something like this myself, as I already have the ARSP16, and am currently looking to upgrade a pair of Dynaco ST70's, brideged, that I'm currently using.
Your review makes it sound as if you are indeed a tube lover, and yet you are running the solid state in your power stage. I want to get away from the lack of clarity in the bass, but I don't want to lose the sparkle and transparency in the mids and highs. Do you find the McIntosh amp fullfills this. The price is certanly more in my price range than the Jolida mono blocks.
I'd appreciate your opinion.
Thank You,
David Hicks - E-mail: anomaly7 (at) aol.com

NF
Hi David,
Thanks for your email.
You read correctly, I am a tube lover, however I also like high powered amps.  High powered tube amps tend to be very pricey, so I selected the McIntosh amp because of its "tube like" qualities.  It is on the warm side, and is very musical and forgiving.  You won't lose the sparkle and transparency, in my opinion, but I do recommend a home audition of any component before becoming committed, especially a component that costs $2200.
Do be aware, you won't hear much of a difference, if any at all, in sheer volume level between the Dynaco and the Mac.  The Dynaco bridged does 70 watts per channel, roughly equivalent to 140 SS watts.  The MC-162 is rated at 100 watts per channel into 8 ohms, 160 watts per channel into 4 ohms. It seems you have a nice preamp.  I attempted to obtain a review sample of  the SP16 on its introduction, but Audio Research wasn't interested.
I hope this is of assistance.
Nels Ferré